Leukerbad Village Views

High above the Rhone Valley, I tried not to look as the bus driver deftly navigated the monstrosity around hairpin turns ever climbing. But there’s a thing about precipices where only a 2 foot high metal guardrail separates you from a vertical drop hundreds of feet into a rock encrusted ravine…it’s terrifying but ever so scenic! In this way, terror and enthrallment propelled my journey ever upward…how far was anybody’s guess…through the clouds? At 4593 feet, I reached Leukerbad, a Swiss village remarkably nestled in a valley of its own surrounded by peaks reaching even further to the sky.

Spa Culture

Best known as the largest spa resort in the Swiss Alps, spa culture really took root in Leukerbad during the 1500s although the history of thermal springs in Leukerbad dates back to Roman-Helvetian times. Despite avalanche destruction, public baths (Volksheilbad), a proud tradition still in place today was established in 1556. Water fed by glacier melt from the Torrent filters 3000 meters in the Torrent massif before emerging as thermal water in Leukerbad, the largest outflow being in the St. Lorenzquelle town square. Centuries ago people were already aware of the therapeutic effects of thermal water making what was then an arduous journey along a mule trail to relax and recuperate in the mineral springs. To this day, 3.9 million liters flow from these springs feeding 30 thermal pools at 51 degrees Celsius which are then cooled to 34-36 degrees Celsius for optimal soaking. 4 Spa facilities are open to the public at all times. 2 of my favorites are the Linder Alpentherme wellness temple featuring both an indoor & outdoor thermal pool, a Roman-Irish bath, and a Valais sauna village while the Burgerbad, the largest thermal spa resort in the Alps has 10 pools with amenities like slides and wading

Burgerbad In-Spa Champagne Breakfast

pools for the children. You’re in luck if you happen to be visiting when the Burgerbad hosts their monthly in-spa champagne breakfast complete with floating trays as you soak in the mineral baths. This unique feature actually originated out of necessity in the early days when doctors prescribed day-long soaks to their patients.

Top Dining

Leukerbad is all about healthy eating with many dishes made using local ingredients like black nose lamb, alpine herbs, mountain rye, and seasonal vegetables. High above the village on the Gemmi Pass, Restaurant Wildstrubel and its accompanying Hotel caters to the outdoor enthusiast with quick and hearty meals prepared from scratch. Views from the dining areas, especially out on their cliff side patio majestically showcase Leukerbad far below with the Valais Alps defining the horizon. I was able to visit the kitchen to see just how the staggering variety of Rosti plates along with fresh baked pastry are prepared.

At the moment, Hotel Les Sources des Alpes is Leukerbad’s only 5-star hotel although manager Pierre Berclaz would like to see that change in the future. “Competition at this level would actually be good for business because it attracts more discerning visitors expecting higher-end amenities and exacting service.” To a certain extent, that’s already happening with the 51 Degree project which promises 30 residential suites, many of them with their own in-room spas. But no matter where you’re staying in the village, you can enjoy this hotel’s regal experience by dining in the on site Restaurant La Malvoisie  specializing in French Fusion dishes although the chef’s talents particularly shine through in spur of the moment creativity like arranging a drink mixed table side from scratch.

Great Outdoors

Surrounded by all this high altitude terrain, prime opportunities for skiing and hiking simply can’t be missed. The Torrent Ski area alone boasts over 50 km of trails reaching as high as 8563 feet with the most challenging descent of 3035 feet. An added bonus is spectacular views of the surrounding Valais peaks towering over 13123 feet. At times it can be difficult to focus on the terrain underfoot without gaping into the distance.

Relaxing on the Wildstrubel Sun Deck

Towering 7710 feet over Leukerbad, the Gemmi Pass offers a wide range of excitement from high alpine ski tours, 11 miles of cross country ski trails, groomed winter hiking trails, toboggan runs, and extensive snowshoe trails. Other activities include whizzing down the mountain on monster scooters and paragliding.

A steep (almost vertical at times) gondola ride wisks you from the village of Leukerbad to the Gemmi Pass where you’ll have ample mountain views from the Wildstrubel restaurant’s sun terrace before hiking along the shores of Lake Dauben to Kandersteg. The terrace was recently extended with a dizzying new viewing platform. The steel construction juts out 32 feet over the edge while its open grid flooring and diagonal glass walls afford incredible views of the valley below. And for the more adventurous, the steepest via ferrata (steep mountain path equipped with fixed cables, ladders, and bridges) in Switzerland awaits.

Photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky and Leukerbad Tourism. Videos courtesy of Steve Mirsky

Open Air Market Next to 50th St. Subway Station

Head south deep into Brooklyn’s interior on the elevated D train and get off at the 50th Street station. At the bottom of the stairs, an open air market greets you with fresh fruits and vegetables anytime of the year. One block away on 13th Avenue is Borough Park, spelled by locals as Boro Park – the main thoroughfare of one of the world’s largest Orthodox Jewish communities outside of Israel. Here you can learn a bit about Jewish culture by simply walking the streets and picking up a neighborhood newspaper. You’ll quickly scratch beyond the surface of ubiquitous black top hats and discover that this Orthodox community is far from homogenous.

Local Culture

The primary residents of Boro Park are Hasidic and Hareidi Jewish families, although many other sects call this neighborhood home. Each family typically averages six children, creating a localized baby boom. Synagogues and yeshivas (schools) figure very  prominently in the community, but not in the ways you may expect. Many synagogues aren’t separate ornate structures, but instead occupy row houses along side streets. Front entrances are rather unceremoniously marked with simple signs in Hebrew, sometimes outlining the Torah. In time, a good number of Hasidic rebbes (rabbis), as well as other rabbinical personalities, build a following and break away to establish their own synagogues.  It’s not uncommon to see some of these leaders walking through the crowds on 13th Ave. singing praises or making proclamations.

The Hasidic community has developed their own version of a neighborhood block watch by forming a Shomrim, a network of residents who volunteer to prevent crime and handle emergencies. The Boro Park Shomrim was originally established as “The Bakery Boys,” a group of bakery delivery drivers who noticed that crime surged during their late night and early morning deliveries. The group now receives extensive training and has become a full citizen patrol in partnership with the New York Police Department’s Community Affairs Division. Although they don’t carry weapons and desist immediately upon NYPD orders, they maintain constant radio contact with the police department’s central dispatch, investigate suspicious persons, assist residents with police matters, and conduct searches for missing persons.

Amnon's Kosher Pizza and Falafel

Food and Lodging

Boro Park is globally renowned among Hasidic Jews and other tourists for its extensive dining and lodging options. The 13th Avenue district, roughly one mile in length from 39th Street to about 55th Street, is the community’s lifeblood. Among the prominent mix of banks, a staggering variety of shops, markets, and kosher eateries beckon the senses. But don’t label puffy melt-in-your-mouth jelly donuts from The Donut Man, whole wheat personal pizzas and cheeseless calzones from Amnon’s Kosher Pizza and Falafel, or  truffles from Candy Land as junk food. Perhaps these delicacies taste too good to be wholesome, but you’ll notice the flavor and how your stomach isn’t doing handsprings  after indulging. Chalk this up to the use of pure water, only fresh ingredients, and cooking done under strict Rabbinical supervision.

Photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky

Slope Side Dining Doesn't Have to be Cafeteria Style

When you’re on the slopes and the conditions are just right, the last thing you want to do is stop and eat. But not to worry when you’re in the Alps, the Swiss have on-slope dining down to a science. Breaking for lunch is an integral part of the experience and not something to be merely endured. Your choices range from top quality grab-and-go to cozy communal table haute cuisine.

Findlerhof

Perched in the tiny village of Findeln, a short ski below the top station of the Sunnegga Express funicular lift, 14 Gault Millau point Findlerhof features gourmet Mediterranean and regional delicacies with an impressive wine list. During summer, owners Franz and Heidi grow lettuce for their salads and berries for vinaigrette and desserts in their own Alpine garden. When visiting during winter, getting down to the front entrance of this antique post and beam eatery can be a challenge indeed! Chances are you’ll be sliding down a steep snow covered path in your ski boots. Luckily a rope railing guides your journey down to their sun terrace overlooking the Matterhorn. Once you enter through the thick wooden door, you’ll feel as though you’ve stepped back in time with rough hewn exposed wood clapboard walls, water served in pitchers from an on-site spring and given the remote location, an amazingly diverse menu featuring fresh seafood and seasonal vegetables. Signature plates seem to magically appear from the tiny kitchen heaped with specialties like Matterkuchen (quiche), lamb fillet with an herb crust, truffle ravioli, homemade pasta, seafood, veal cutlets from a bio-farmer.

Be sure to make reservations because despite Findlerhof’s remote location, this place has a celebrated international following.

Cervo's Outdoor Patio

Cervo

A ski trail literally ends at the restaurant’s doorstep. A large deck outside ensconced in a forest setting overlooks the Matterhorn yet you’re minutes above Zermatt’s action. Inside, the hotel restaurant décor is rustic modern with antlers comprising handrails and festooning portions of the bar’s ceiling. Here I had two appetizers, the first of which was Hobelkase, thinly sliced “planing” cheese rolled up into tubes filled with plum chutney. The other consisted of Roggenbrot (thin slices of crisp rye bread pieces) elegantly arranged like a mini stone henge on my plate and filled with a mixture of cream cheese, apple, pear, and fresh lettuce topped with small pieces of Welsh bacon. Main courses range from roasted breast of quail with Madras curry to black Cod with pine needle and Elderflowers on a bed of black rice. For dessert, move out on the deck in front of the outdoor fireplace with a glass of wine from the Valais paired with pickled apricots and almonds topped with cream of lavender.

Kulmhotel Panorama Self-Serve

Panorama Self Serve Goodies

Part of 3100 Kulmhotel, the highest hotel in the Swiss Alps in Gornergrat, onsite Panorama self-service restaurant offers a range of international hot and cold dishes, including homemade cake and sandwiches. The viewing platform of Gornergrat and the areas around the hotel are car free and only reachable by a regular train service, which takes 40 minutes’ from Zermatt through scenic countryside. Ultramodern and glass-enclosed, this place place is right at the base of a sledding trail perfect for warming up with an exquisite espresso or glass of wine. And if the weather is cooperative, the outdoor patio has unparalleled mountain views.

Photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky and featured properties.  Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored trip.

Inside Restaurant Allalin

What do you get when you build the world’s highest altitude glass-walled rotating restaurant overlooking a 360 degree panorama of the Swiss Alps? What if deep below this restaurant carved into glacial ice, you can explore lit passageways connecting large grottos filled with ornate ice carvings, an ice altar for celebrating weddings, and another room completely outfitted as a playground with slides and ladders for the children? My first words to describe these wonders high above Sass Fee atop the Allalinhorn were “Only in Switzerland!”

Restaurant Three Sixty

Your adventure begins by taking the world’s highest subterranean Alpine train, the Metro Alpin from Felskinn Station above Saas-Fee up 3,456 meters above sea level to the Restaurant Three Sixty. You make a stark transition climbing the stairs from ordinary ski-area-esque concrete floors and heavy non-descript glass doors up into a continually rotating circular restaurant flooded by sunlight through wall to ceiling windows. Sit down at light alder wood tables and your eyes will immediately fixate on breathtaking views of the surrounding Alps. Be sure to get a window seat but just don’t place your gloves and hat on the window sill. This part of the restaurant is not moving so you will gradually move away from your gear. Look closely down at the

World's Highest Revolving Restaurant

window ledge and you’ll notice a detailed diagram identifying every mountain you are currently viewing. Peaks of the Saaser Mischabel mountain chain including the Eiger and Mönch as well as further afield Jungfrau to name a few, slowly pass by creating an ever changing panorama.

Not only does the dining area…rustic, simple, and clean showcase the spectacular alpine setting outside, the food reflects the region as well featuring classics like grilled Raclette  cheese over bread accompanied by small pickles & onions or Walliser Brot, local Valais bread with smoked ham, dried tomatoes, and truffle olives. I enjoyed their Samosas, a crisp dumpling filled with vegetables, saffron-vegetable risotto and pumpkin apple chutney. A custom made latte with house made dessert waffles or rice pudding provide the perfect finish before embarking on further adventures.

Eispavillon Ice Grotto

Deep below the Restaurant Three Sixty, 120 steps carved through glacial ice thousands

Eispavillon Ice Grotto in Sass Fee

of years old lead down a 70 meter long tunnel 10 meters below the surface to large grottos. Deep within the glacier, a grotto named Eispavillon was carved over 20 years ago by glaciologist Benedikt Schnyder making it the world’s largest artificial ice cave. Passageways showcase ice sculptures lit by magical blue light produced by sunlight filtering through layers of ice from above. Most interesting, interspersed among the passageways, various exhibits chronicle the heritage of fearless mountain guides and rescue teams, glacial exploration, and the future of these fragile natural treasures in light of the climatic history of our planet along with current warming trends. The most notable display is a natural crevasse called Bergschrund which demonstrates how a mountaineer is rescued after an accident. In the huge circular shaped Glaciarium used for meditation and weddings, the head of a pharaoh, penguins, and Saint Berhard of Aosta are sculpted from ice.

Photos courtesy of Swiss Tourism. Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored trip.

Oceanside at Grand Solmar Lands End

It’s no wonder that Los Cabos, located at the tip of 1,000-mile long Baja Peninsula, was selected as the host city for this year’s G20 Summit scheduled for June 18 – 19. Los Cabos has long been a favored destination for those seeking once-in-a-lifetime vacation experiences where rugged desert meets pristine white sand beaches framed by the iconic El Arco de Cabo San Lucas. What really sealed the deal for locating this event here was the region’s solid infrastructure and impeccable safety record. It also didn’t hurt that a new state-of-the-art Convention Center is near completion and a $250 million dollar 4-lane highway was recently inaugurated by President Calderón stretching from Cabo San Lucas to the capital city of La Paz cutting travel time in half. New non-stop flights are also being introduced from major Canadian cities and Orange County via AirTran and Chicago via Frontier Airlines.

Most notably, Los Cabos has welcomed an array of new and re branded hotels over the last year including Grand Solmar Land’s End Resort & Spa, opened May 2011; the Holiday Inn Resort Los Cabos, formerly the Presidente InterContinental Los Cabos Resort; and the Secrets Marquis Los Cabos, formerly the Marquis Los Cabos. Additionally, a new Secrets Puerto Los Cabos resort will open in November 2013 with 500 rooms. Within the next three years, The Ritz-Carlton Company and Morgans Hotel Group plan to break ground on resorts of their own.

If I were a lucky G20 attendee, I would make it a point to stay at the Grand Solmar Land’s End. Not only are the location and

amenities one-of-a-kind, every Thursday evening at 5 pm, sommelier Isidoro Mendez leads tequila tasting classes at the property’s

Grand Solmar Lands End Tequila Tasting

newly opened fine dining restaurant Don Luis. Here “lessons” transcend the academic focusing on sensory identification of Silver, Gold, Reposado, Anejo and Premium exclusively using color and flavor as guides. The best part is learning how these five tequilas pair best with foods ranging from hot and spicy to desserts, coffee flavors, and everything in between.

An unfortunate approach to tequila appreciation here in the States is the shot, salt, lime, and repeat method. This does little for detecting the subtle nuances of a particular tequila’s flavor profile. In Mexico, the proper tequila enjoyment technique involves sipping and savoring with “Sangrita”, a tomato based non-alcoholic drink blended with lemon and orange flavors. So if I were a foreign affairs dignitary attending this G20 Summit, I would make it a priority to fit Mendez’s tequila class into my more weighty itinerary of learning the finer points of diplomacy and cultural development.

Photos courtesy of Grand Solmar Land’s End

Bob Sickles in the Market

There’s a reason New Jersey is called the Garden State. Sickles Market in Little Silver is a great example of this State’s venerated farming tradition. Sickles started out as a seasonal farm stand back in 1908 selling homegrown fruits and vegetables to local stores. Now over 100 years later, Bob Sickles Jr. has not only continued the tradition of selling locally grown farm produce like Jersey fresh corn and blackberries but has expanded the business into a cause…enlightening customers by offering internationally renown artisan products as well as hosting culinary field trips. Bob loves to broaden customers’ perspectives and buying habits through travel. “This is the best way to promote a greater appreciation of other cultures and cultivating a more attuned taste experience.”

Curiosity has indeed fueled the development of Sickles Market into what it is today. The market’s initial expansion involved selling annual bedding plants and flowers, as well as vegetable plants. Customers wanted to be able to grow the same quality vegetables in their own gardens that they were purchasing from the farm stand, so Bob Sr. (Bob Jr.’s Dad) started growing extra vegetable plants to sell to his customers. Soon an entire garden center was added offering perennials and nursery stock. A little later, grocery staples like cheese & milk, home-baked bread, top-quality jams, and fresh cut flowers filled up Sickles’ simple garage-like space. In 1999, they reached the milestone of staying open year-round with a greater proliferation of gourmet grocery items, international cheeses, as well as adding a butcher shop, deli, and a kitchen cooking up chef-prepared foods to-go each day.

The market’s regularly scheduled culinary field trips, the brainchild of garden center employee, Kirsty Dougherty is Sickles’ most

Sickles Sicily Grand Tour

recent development. “One day Kirsty came to me with a business plan for running field trips for customers and I was immediately sold”, says Bob. There is no better way to acquire appreciation for other cultures and food than through travel.” In addition to more localized tours like a day in Philadelphia at Di Bruno Bros and an upcoming North Jersey Balthazar Bakery Tour in the works, Sickles’ second annual gourmet tour of Sicily is scheduled for October 1st – 10^th. You’ll get to meet the producers of specialty foods found only on Sickles Market’s shelves as you follow the behind-the-scenes route that enchanted Bob and Leslie Sickles while on a recent buying trip. Accompany a Sicilian chef to his favorite seaside market and later taste the sumptuous dishes made from the results of your shopping spree. This grand tour, open to only 12 participants, also includes private excursions and tastings in olive orchards, vineyards and expansive salt flats.

Do yourself a favor and reserve your spot now before they’re all taken!

Photos courtesy of Sickles Market

Oyster Tin Display at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum Illustrates the Eastern Shore's Tenuous Bounty

If travel plans or your backyard’s proximity put you anywhere near Maryland’s Eastern Shore over the coming week, you simply can’t miss Talbot County’s Restaurant Week! This is your chance to try out some of the area’s top culinary stars in a region that’s blossomed in recent years into a must- taste culinary mecca.

No fewer than twelve Talbot County dining spots are listed in the 2011 edition of the famed Zagat guide to Washington, DC and Baltimore. The main reason behind this development is the region’s abundance of just caught seafood and loads of fresh seasonal produce from numerous local farms. This is largely due to the fact that the tentacles of suburban sprawl have been kept at bay here. Naturally, talented chefs have followed establishing themselves in this top quality food purveyors’ paradise. “Talbot Restaurant Week introduces diners to the most contemporary trends in gourmet dining, from European infusions to Chesapeake Bay specialties. Not only have our chefs trained and worked around the globe, many offer their time-honored recipes from esteemed culinary regions. They can’t wait to present their special culinary creations to tantalize diners’ taste buds”, says Debbi Dodson, Talbot County Office of Tourism Director.

Here are my experiences with 2 stellar restaurants among the lineup in this event:

Sherwood’s Landing at The Inn at Perry Cabin

The opulent manor-style Inn at Perry Cabin boasts the Eastern Shore’s only 4 diamond restaurant. Sherwood’s Landing, overlooking

Goat Cheese Mousse for Dessert at Sherwood Landing

the Chesapeake, is helmed by new executive chef Aaron Mc Cloud who has worked in an impressive lineup of top restaurants from the Vermont mountains down to Victoria and Albert’s in Florida. At an early age, Albert traded in his violin bow as a professional musician, picked up a chefs knife, and carved out a remarkable performance in the culinary arts. His artistry shows through in his world class preparation and presentation of farm-to-fork dishes that change with the seasons. Standouts that I ordered included roasted wild rockfish with pumpkin & apple salad, oyster stew, and a goat cheese mousse dessert plate.

Tilghman Island Inn

Tilghman Island Inn, right on the waterfront of Knapp’s Narrows, overlooks marsh and the Chesapeake Bay beyond. The restaurant’s menu incorporates local seafood and game whenever possible and David McCallum, co-owner and Executive Chef, is heavily influenced by his southern roots in South Carolina and New Orleans. Since David grew up on a farm, sourcing fresh produce, eggs, and meat is second nature to him. He has formed partnerships with local

Spicy Brazilian Duck Tart in a Sweet Cornmeal Crust at Tilghman Island Inn

growers and fisherman to get just picked vegetables as well as fresh caught rockfish, crabmeat, bluefish, soft shell crabs, oyster and shad roe. He also inventively uses unique regional ingredients like heirloom rice from South Carolina, grains from Minnesota, and grits from Georgia. But don’t come here expecting comfort food in a rustic setting. The dining experience and kitchen prowess is all about white table cloths and international panache influenced by David’s culinary excursions to Europe, South America and Asia.

During my visit, in honor of the weekend’s Waterfowl Festival, David hosted a Wild Game and French Wines dinner. Tasty inventive dishes included chick pea dusted frog legs with lemon caper tartar sauce; spicy Brazilian duck tart encrusted in cornmeal; braised rabbit; and my favorite, wild boar sausage with lobster, mustard, and scallion risotto. For me, the big surprise wine pairing with these dishes was an array of Lanquedocs. The dark chocolate red wine mousse served as a crowning touch to the meal.

Be sure to check out the full roster when planning your visit!

Photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky

Street Outside Godswargjistubu in Albinen

You will most likely be frolicking in the public spas of Leukerbad or skiing the pristine snow fields of the Torrent before discovering the ancient Valais village of Albinen only about 10 miles away. This is due to the fact that it’s tucked away behind vertical cliffs through a tunnel remarkably constructed as late as 1980. In the centuries before this important milestone, reaching the village involved climbing an extensive network of ladders anchored into various crevices in the steely granite. Given this challenging terrain, it isn’t surprising that the village’s population now

Inside Godswargjistubu Delicatessen's Dining Room

hovering around 270, hasn’t notably fluctuated since statistics were taken in 1850. But upon arrival in what is one of Switzerland’s best-preserved traditional mountain villages, Albinen, nestled in its 4000 feet south facing perch affords many hours of direct sun and jaw dropping views of the Rhone Valley below.

Listed on the Inventory of Swiss Heritage Sites, Albinen’s extremely compact layout was shaped by scarcity of buildable land that was settled by shepherds back in 1224 due to its strategic proximity to alpine meadows for grazing. Streets here are actually narrow enough to pass as sidewalks….definitely not wide enough for even the tiniest Smart Car to sneak through. In one building, a historic Walliser stube built in 1636 still has a large crack in the wall from an 1855 earthquake. Godswargjistubu Delicatessen’s rustic interior is like stepping back in time with wooden planked floors and a large wood burning stove to the right of the kitchen entrance. At one time the entire building was used as a parsonage for the nearby church before undergoing extensive restorations.

Homemade Jellies and Condiments Stored in the Basement

In addition to day trippers, Godswargjistubu Delicatessen is the perfect stop off for hikers and snow sport enthusiasts seeking authentic Swiss dishes made from scratch utilizing a wide variety of alpine ingredients. Each day, a different seasonal 4-course menu is based on the best available vegetables, herbs, and homemade condiments that owner Hannelore Tsokhim-Bumann and her son Roger have harvested directly

Salad Featuring Pickled Apricot, Cabbage, and Barley...All Local Alpine Ingredients

from the forest and their own gardens. This is possible even during winter since their root cellar is amply stocked with a wide range of vegetables like cabbages, carrots, and turnips as well as home pickled and canned staples. During the summer, Hannelore leads groups on herb walks sharing her knowledge of how to locate and harvest alpine treats like meadow hogweed buds (aka wild broccoli), nettles to be used in nettle-Godswärgji tagliatelle, mushrooms, wild garlic, barberries, and various Alp tea ingredients which she steeps in her own brew that’s delicious hot or iced.

Real Swiss Alpine Herbal Tea

 

 

Photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky.  Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored visit.

Charlie Markus and Maren...the Magical Team

Visitors to the small alpine village of Saas-Fee don’t stumble upon the Waldhotel Fletschorn Hotel’s restaurant by mistake. The journey to the village itself involves a spectacular 1.5 hour bus ride from Visp continually winding along hairpin curves inches away from the plunging abyss that ultimately cradles the River Vispa. Once in Saas-Fee, it takes either a 20 minute walk on their driveway winding through thick Swiss pines and sweeping alders, or a 5 minute taxi ride seemingly to nowhere until you arrive at their grand doorstep. As you’re seated inside with a wine list nearly as thick as War and Peace, half of which is dedicated to local Valais wines, you immediately get the sense that you’re in a legendary establishment…one that has in fact recently celebrated its 100 year

Waldhotel Fletschhorn's Massive Wine List

anniversary.

The Legends

It just so happens that your intuition is correct. Not only does the dining room, bar, and large porthole window into the kitchen lend to an opulently comfortable gustatory setting, it’s the unique and highly talented staff running the Fletschhorn that make the experience magical. You have head chef Markus Neff from Austria who fine tuned his craft in various restaurants before settling in here at age 19 back in 1983. Then there is Charlie Neumuller who not only co-manages the entire operation with his life partner Maren Muller but is chiefly responsible for stocking the Fletschhorn’s vast 42,000 bottle/1200 label Wine Spectator awarded wine cellar. Each of their backgrounds conspire to bring them together like a sudden mountain lightning storm creating the perfect conditions for forging exquisitely experimental dishes using local staples like freshly harvested morrels, racks of Valais lamb, goats’ cream cheese, and seasonally ripe apricots and asparagus.

Waldhotel Fletschhorn Fois Gras

The Food

During my visit, we had the privilege of experiencing their From Valley Low to Mountain High menu of the house while the dessert also included a Maracaibo chocolate mouse from their From Lake to Sea menu. After losing our way in the huge wine compendium, we opted to trust our sommelier’s expertise in selecting two regional Valais wines for pairing with each dish. We sampled both and then picked our choice for accompanying each creation that was brought to our table. First it was a rich and hearty pumpkin soup paired with an Amigne Grand Cru de Vetroz. I detected a sharp cheese on the bouquet with a complex melange on the palate…extreme minerality with many flavor direction made it perfectly flexible to sip with this heart warming soup. Their foie gras with dates and poached pears was a delicate and flavorful combination showcasing this particular meat’s exotic mouth feel in an entirely different light. With the Tortelloni stuffed with braised duck leg topped with black Périgord truffle shavings, I had a Les Claives

Waldhotel Fletschhorn Braised Duck Leg Tortelloni

Marsanne with an unmistakable liquor on the nose carrying over into sharp minerality that held up well to the dense waterfowl. My first red wine of the night, a Baton Rouge from Cave du Vidomne in St. Pierre de Clages had a velvety bramble berry that jousted well with the juicy tenderloin of bison served with delicate potatoes mousseline. As you can see, Chef Markus’s presentation is unmuddled by artifice, but most notably, even the most colorful garnishes are all absolutely edible.

By the time Maren wheeled the mind-bogglingly extensive Swiss cheese trolley to our table, I simply abandoned my notes feeling that my efforts were cutting into the experience of savoring the interplay of flavors while fully enjoying the good company from nearby tables. And I heaped on a further justification…everybody’s palate detects something slightly different even if they

Waldhotel Fletschhorn Cheese Trolley

were to make the exact same pairings that we did. And the chances of this happening are extremely slim due to such a wide selection. But I’m trusting that when you do visit Sass-Fee, the Waldhotel Fletschhorn will be first on your list of must-dos complete with a Valais wine pairing of your own.

Photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky.  Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored trip.

Chef at Work in Cervo's Kitchen

I found that getting fully acquainted with Zermatt goes beyond taking your picture in front of the Matterhorn and doing some skiing or hiking. It’s about immersing yourself in local mountain heritage at the Matterhorn Museum and taking a stroll through the narrow streets of historic Old Zermatt. Getting to know some residents and dining at some of their favorite restaurants also helps you realize that rough mountain living dependent on sheep herding, local vegetable crops, and herbs has shaped Swiss cuisine over hundreds of years. Today’s top Zermatt gourmet restaurants epitomize the tasty spectacle of simple ingredients prepared to innovative and exacting heights. One of the best ways to witness these chefs’ magic is to join the village’s weekly Kitchen Around held Tuesdays and Wednesdays for 2-4 people.

For 158 CHF per person, you aren’t just getting behind-the-scenes in the kitchens of any ‘ole place. Along with world class skiing, Zermatt ranks as Switzerland’s top dining destination in the Alps with 17 restaurants totaling 233 Gault Millau points. Gault Millau is a rating system similar to Michelin Stars except with the distinguishing factor that points are awarded strictly based on food quality. Comments about service, price or atmosphere are given separately and don’t affect the score.

Joining in on this tour takes you into the kitchens of 4 restaurants for 1 course each made right in front of you and served with aplomb. Usually a table with full place settings complete with candlelight along with chef selected glasses of local Valais wine await you on the periphery of all the kitchen action. I felt welcomed as the guest of honor with rare access to cooking tips from the chef as well as enjoyable conversations with other staff.

For instances when it’s a little less expedient by foot due to distance, 2 electric powered taxi rides (combustion engines are not allowed in Zermatt) get you to and from restaurants. This along with at least one surprise culinary-related gift is included in the price. Here’s what I experienced:

Cervo

Take a glass-walled elevator from the village of Zermatt’s Rechte Uferstrasse 100 meters up to this newly constructed luxury chalet. Then cross a ski trail which literally ends at the restaurant’s doorstep. A large deck outside ensconced in a forest setting overlooks the Matterhorn yet you’re minutes above Zermatt’s action. Inside, the hotel restaurant décor is rustic modern with antlers

Sonnmatten's Homemade Bread Selection

comprising handrails and festooning portions of the bar’s ceiling. Here I had two appetizers, the first of which was Hobelkase, thinly sliced “planing” cheese rolled up into tubes filled with plum chutney. The other consisted of Roggenbrot (thin slices of crisp rye bread pieces) elegantly arranged like a mini stone henge on my plate and filled with a mixture of cream cheese, apple, pear, and fresh lettuce topped with small pieces of Welsh bacon.

Sonnmatten

In the words of Head Chef Andreas Stotter, “Our guests are the center of everything we do. We aren’t satisfied unless they are ecstatic!” Not only is the service impeccable, but vaunted specialties here include veal cheek with parsnips, potato purée and Romanesco. I was served a deliciously soul-warming Champagne celery soup accompanied by

Classic Valais Lamb in All Its Glory

an eclectic selection of house made mini bread loafs. My favorite was what I can best describe as a thick pretzel topped sparingly with salt crystals.

Z’Art

This restaurant/wine-bar not only features artfully prepared and tasty dishes but also notable works of art on its walls. A type of art gallery (currently black and white mountain scene photos) are on display and for sale. You can order anything from Asian starter “finger-food” to substantial main courses. Here I had what was the “main course” of the evening. A hearty plate of lamb curry studded with two locally butchered black nose lamb chops. The ragout, most generously seasoned with cinnamon, cloves, and cardamon was the perfect dish apres skiing in -5 C conditions.

Walliserhof

A Zermatt classic right on the Bahnhofstrasse, this restaurant is divided between the rustic

Walliserhof Desserts

Stübli featuring five types of cheese fondue, various tarts, flambes, plus lighter specialties like ultra-thin air-dried beef. The other side is a grill where Switzerland often meets Mediterranean influences. Here I went straight to the basement kitchen for a double dessert consisting of a chocolate tort filled with pop-rock like candies as well as a scoop of house made vanilla ice cream topped with a freshly baked vanilla wafer….a perfect harmonization of the yin-yang dichotomy at work here!

Video and photos courtesy of Steve Mirsky.  Coverage made possible by participating in a sponsored trip.